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    1. The first email we receive says “my hydrangeas or figs or whatever are dead”. But when I email them back and ask if there’s any green growth at the bottom, they say ‘yes’. So apparently I thought I knew what the word ‘dead’ meant, but I was wrong. - Source: Internet
  • Your hydrangeas are probably the type that produce flowers on old wood, since the popular Hydrangea macrophyllas (mophead, bigleaf and lacecap) are included in that group, along with native shrub oakleaf. In temperate climates, it is not necessary to prune these hydrangeas to encourage them to grow, as they continue to produce stems and flowers every year without attention. However, if you wish to reduce the size of your shrubs, wield the clippers in the weeks just after the shrubs have finished flowering. A late summer pruning allows the plants time to develop buds for the following summer’s blooms. - Source: Internet
  • Panicle hydrangeas (Hydrangea paniculata) get a later start in their blooming season, preferring to bloom in the heat of summer rather than the cool weather in spring. Often not getting started until July, panicle hydrangeas bloom into September. Their flowers start out as white and begin to change to a rusty pink as fall draws near. - Source: Internet
  • The macrophyllas (the mop heads and the lacecaps) and the oak-leafed hydrangeas need light pruning. Roger advises you to snip off the dead flower heads in March, taking off the top pair of leaves. You should cut down to the first fat bud you see. That’s next summer’s flower. - Source: Internet
  • Right. And most other summer bloomers—like crepe myrtle and butterfly bush—do best if they get a nice pruning in the Spring, about a week or two after all risk of frost is gone. But most hydrangeas bloom on what’s called ‘old wood’—growth from previous years, and not the current season. So when people prune their hydrangeas in the Fall or in the Spring, they’re inadvertently removing the old wood that was poised to produce summertime flowers. - Source: Internet
  • It’s not every hydrangea that changes color. The color of some Bigleaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla)—especially Mophead and Lacecap types—and H. serrata cultivars change color based on the soil pH. - Source: Internet
  • In conclusion, you don’t have to cut back hydrangeas. If you do, it is dependent upon what type of growth you are cutting. Old-growth has bark that is layered and dry-looking. Its stems are also stiff and rigid. This type of growth should be cut before it grows its buds for the following year. - Source: Internet
  • Some varieties of hydrangeas are evergreen. This means they don’t drop their leaves and flowers as the temperature gets colder. Below are some of those varieties. - Source: Internet
  • The H. macrophylla bloom on last year’s wood and new wood that grows this year. So it will bloom whether you prune it or not. Protect H. macrophylla in winter from rabbit browsing on the stems with a large, 4-foot tall ring of hardware cloth. - Source: Internet
  • Flowers for a hydrangea grow from buds. The buds remain on the plant all throughout the winter. Buds grow very shortly after the current year’s flowers shrivel and fall off. - Source: Internet
  • If your soil is rich, you may not need to fertilize hydrangeas. Too much fertilizer encourages leafy growth at the expense of blooms. The best way to determine your fertility needs is by using a soil test. - Source: Internet
  • If you don’t prune hydrangeas, they will flower just fine. But, the volume and appearance of the flowers won’t be as good as if you prune it back. Pruning reduces the number of resources the plant needs. - Source: Internet
  • Most hydrangeas need at least 3-4 hours of light to produce blooms. Early morning light is excellent, mid day light is fine if it is dabbled light versus beating sun and afternoon sun is usually too hot. However, check the plant label. Newer hydrangea varieties are being developed to tolerate greater length of exposure to sun and intensity of sunlight. Remember, a hydrangea in full sun will need much more watering than one in dabbled light. - Source: Internet
  • Whereas many bigleaf hydrangeas (H. macrophylla) can have pink or blue flowers depending on the soil, the color of panicle hydrangeas’ flowers do not change based on the soil chemistry. Rather, it is a change in temperature that triggers their flowers to turn from white to pink or red in the fall. In southern zones where nighttime temperatures are still quite warm in the fall, the color change will not be as pronounced as it is in the north where temperatures fall quite a bit more at night. - Source: Internet
  • Prune back stems to just above a fat bud — called a heading cut — in fall, late winter or spring. These plants have conical-shaped flower heads. I recommend leaving the dry, tan flower heads on the plant to provide some winter interest in your landscape, so I wait to prune these until late winter or spring. Some favorite panicle hydrangeas: - Source: Internet
  • Most varieties of hydrangeas lose their leaves in the late fall and look dead throughout winter. There are called deciduous varieties. Others keep their leaves year-round. - Source: Internet
  • Hydrangeas do not respond well to hard pruning. Whilst hard pruning is not necessarily detrimental to the health of your hydrangea, it can cause it not to display flowers for up to two years. Hard pruned hydrangeas that are cut well back tend to grow back with lots of new shoots and green foliage but with no flowers. - Source: Internet
  • Late spring killing frosts are the other most common weather related reason as to why hydrangeas do not bloom. Both this year and last year, we had very cold temperatures in April following warm spring days. Hydrangeas need to be covered with an old beach towel or sheet when spring temperatures drop to freezing. The temperature drop will kill the buds thus no flowers. - Source: Internet
  • Let these plants grow a season or two before doing any serious “hard” pruning. Once the shrub is established and has a couple of growing seasons under its belt, prune these hydrangeas in the spring down to the ground, or not at all if you want a larger shrub. Flower buds will grow on this season’s growth or new wood. - Source: Internet
  • Panicle hydrangeas from Proven Winners are the most reliably blooming, low maintenance, hardy hydrangeas you can grow. Since they bloom on new growth each summer, there is no chance for the flower buds to be damaged by winter cold because they simply haven’t been formed yet. The result is a reliable show of gorgeous blooms every year from mid to late summer well into fall. - Source: Internet
  • The smooth hydrangea (Hydrangea arborescens) blooms longer than other hydrangeas, often showing color from early June through September. Cultivars include the white “Anabelle” and pink “Invincibelle Spirit.” Unlike other hydrangeas that bloom best on old wood, smooth hydrangeas usually bloom on the current year’s wood, which means you should prune them severely. Cut them down to within 6 to 12 inches of ground level. - Source: Internet
  • We’ve had ten hydrangeas in our yard for many years; and every summer they’ve produced beautiful bouquets for me to bring to work. This is the first year that not one of the bushes has bloomed, regardless of their location in my yard. Could it be because of the cold winter we had? Also, some years I cut the hydrangeas back in the fall and some years I don’t. Is Fall when you’re supposed to cut them back? - Source: Internet
  • You should cut it immediately after they flower. New growth has only a small amount of bark on it if any. It has green stems that are soft and easily bent. This type of growth should be pruned back before spring. There are some varieties of hydrangeas that keep their leaves all year. - Source: Internet
  • If you think you’ve planted your hydrangea in the wrong place, you can move it, says Roger. ‘The best time to move hydrangeas is the end of October or early November. Get it back into the ground as soon as you can.’ - Source: Internet
  • If you’ve ever asked yourself, Why aren’t my hydrangeas blooming?, you’ve come to the right place. Learn how to prevent winter kill on hydrangeas. If your hydrangeas look like dead sticks, read my winter kill hydrangeas care tips. This article also discusses ways to protect hydrangeas from cold because winterizing hydrangeas is important for the health of these ornamental shrubs. - Source: Internet
  • Potash (K) the last number of the ration is for plant hardiness and is the lower ratio of the three elements. Hydrangeas are acid loving plants and fertilizers formulated for acid loving plants can be used to fertilize hydrangeas. Fertilizing twice a year, once in early spring and again in mid-summer is enough for hydrangeas. Always be sure the soil is moist before you apply a fertilizer to prevent root burn. - Source: Internet
  • The plant tag on the hydrangea will tell you if the plant blooms on old wood, new wood or both. It is always best to wait and prune your hydrangeas in the spring. Once the plant starts growing you will see stems that do not have any leaves and are brittle when bent. These stems should be pruned near the base of the plant since they are dead and will not produce any blooms. - Source: Internet
  • Most Hydrangeas are deciduous. Meaning they lose their leaves and in winter. Cutting back or pruning plants is a gardening practice that increases the vitality of a plant. When it comes to hydrangeas, many gardeners do not know what to do, so let’s find out what options are available. - Source: Internet
  • As we begin, we will cover all things hydrangeas and discuss when you can expect yours to bloom. Whether this is your flower’s first spring in the ground or you’ve been waiting, we’re here to help. With that said, let’s explore this topic! - Source: Internet
  • New wood is the current season’s growth. Therefore, you can cut back these stems at any time of the year. Don’t cut back all of it, or you will have nowhere for the flowers to grow from. - Source: Internet
  • Hydrangeas will grow back if cut down. You can cut back hydrangeas all the back to ground level, and they will grow again. The only way to get a hydrangea to not grow back is if you pull the entire plant out of the ground and put it somewhere where the roots can’t get access to nutrients and water in the soil. - Source: Internet
  • Panicle (H. paniculata) and Smooth (H. arborescens) hydrangeas are pruned BEFORE flower buds are formed. These varieties bloom on the current season’s stems (“new wood”). - Source: Internet
  • Hydrangeas grow very well in pots, says Roger. ‘There’s an increasing number of hydrangeas now sold as patio or indoor plants.’ - Source: Internet
  • It is possible to change the flowers’ colors, but not instantly. Color correction takes weeks—even months. Wait until the plant is at least 2 years old to give it time to recover from the shock of its original planting. Also note that it’s easier to change blue flowers to pink than pink to blue. - Source: Internet
  • Roger thinks that hydrangeas work best on their own. ‘They make a dramatic statement in blocks or rows. And macrophyllas are quite dense plants so you wouldn’t want to plant something that needed a lot of sun beside it.’ - Source: Internet
  • If you’re thinking of growing hydrangeas, Roger Butler advises you to start by thinking about your site and soil. ‘If you’re planting hydrangeas in a sunny spot, you should choose paniculatas or arborescens varieties.’ - Source: Internet
  • Say you purchased a Nikko Blue Hydrangea this year. Nikko’s produce blooms in the fall for next year. So this fall your Nikko is producing blooms that will flower next spring. - Source: Internet
  • So if you want to cut off the old wood, you should do so immediately after flowering before the new buds form. This will ensure you don’t cut off the next year’s flowers. That way you will have flowers the following year. - Source: Internet
  • You don’t have to cut back hydrangeas. However, I recommend maintaining the health of the plant. It also helps the flowers to grow large and full. There are different times of the year when hydrangeas should be cut back, depending on what type of growth you are cutting. - Source: Internet
  • Hydrangeas can develop large blooms in their first year, but if you move the plants or transplant one from a pot to the ground, the hydrangeas might skip blooming for a year or even two. This doesn’t mean they are finished blooming for life. Continue watering regularly, and fertilizing the plants in the spring, summer and fall with a balanced fertilizer, and blooms should start developing once their roots get over the shock of transplantation. - Source: Internet
  • Ordinary burlap can be used for wrapping. After the first hard frost and when leaves have fallen off the hydrangea wrap burlap around the plant and fill it with leaves or mulch. This provides insulation for the plant and protects the buds so they will overwinter into next spring. Never use plastic to wrap your hydrangeas. Plastic unlike burlap doesn’t breathe so when warmer winter days arrive, the plant cannot breathe and can warm to such high temperatures the plant cooks inside the plastic and dies. - Source: Internet
  • Hydrangea paniculata has cone-shaped flowers. The fastest-growing hydrangea in popularity is now the paniculata type, according to Roger Butler. ‘We’ve consistently sold more paniculatas over the last few years than any other hydrangea.’ - Source: Internet
  • Now, to actually answer the question: Did these hydrangeas fail to bloom because of the fall pruning? The answer is a qualified use of the weasel-word maybe—because Nature has to share at least some of the blame. Lack of flowers is the rule this year in the mid-Atlantic, Northeast and other regions that experienced the crippling ‘once-in-every-twenty-year’ winter we barely survived, and not the exception. I repeat: It isn’t you (this time, anyway); few to no hydrangeas are blooming in those regions this summer. Boo-hoo! Mean Mother Nature! - Source: Internet
  • There are many different varieties of hydrangeas. Some will flower on both old and new wood, whereas others will only bloom on new or old wood. Most varieties of hydrangeas should be pruned because it increases their growth and health. - Source: Internet
  • ‘You can plant hydrangeas at virtually any time of year,’ says Roger. ‘But if you plant them in the summer, keep them well watered in dry weather.’ - Source: Internet
  • Weather most likely is the second reason as to why your hydrangeas aren’t blooming. Hydrangea buds are very sensitive to cold. So if you have an old wood hydrangea it is a good idea to wrap your hydrangea for the winter. Remember, old wood hydrangeas set blooms in the fall for the following spring. So if the buds produced in the fall are frozen in the winter, you will not have blossoms in the spring. - Source: Internet
  • Hydrangeas are long-lived shrubs, sometimes living for up to 50 years if properly cared for. They enjoy morning sun but afternoon shade, and they need frequent watering during the growing season. Prune them in the fall after the blooms fade so they can grow on strong stems the following summer. Pruning the plants while they’re blooming can damage them, causing the hydrangeas to go a year without blooms while the plants recover. - Source: Internet
  • Many of our readers’ questions involve pruning hydrangeas. And no wonder—it’s confusing, and all depends on the variety of hydrangea. Luckily, as long as you know which type you’ve got, it’s easy to figure out what sort of pruning technique to employ. Learn the essentials below, then read more about how to prune hydrangea varieties here. - Source: Internet
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