When Should You Plant Daffodil Bulbs In Pots? 94 Fun Facts

This time, we’re going to talk about When Should You Plant Daffodil Bulbs In Pots. There is a lot of information about When To Plant Daffodil Bulbs on the internet, of course. Social media are getting better and better quickly, which makes it easier for us to learn new things.

When To Plant Daffodil Bulbs and How Many Daffodil Bulbs Should I Plant Together are also linked to information about How To Store Daffodil Bulbs From Pots. As for other things that need to be looked up, they are about Daffodils In Pots After Flowering and have something to do with How Deep To Plant Daffodil Bulbs.

94 Fun Facts When Should You Plant Daffodil Bulbs In Pots | How To Store Daffodil Bulbs From Pots

• Make sure the planting hole is deep enough. The general rule of thumb is to plant the daffodil bulb about three times the diameter of the bulb. That means that large daffodil bulbs should be planted about 6 inches deep. Bulbs don’t like to be crowded, so place the daffodil bulbs about 4 inches apart. If planting in a container, the bulbs can be closer together, but they should not be touching. - Source: Internet
• Scattering bulbs and planting where they fall will give you a natural look in lawns, meadows, on banks or in beds. Bold drifts in beds and borders give impact, and clumps under trees with a cascade of blossom confetti look charming. They are also wonderful for filling gaps between shrubs and plants in herbaceous beds. This is definitely not a less is more flower. - Source: Internet
• Planted in the bed, they are one of the first to bloom. Together with other early bloomers such as crocuses (Crocus), snowdrops (Galanthus), lily of the valley (Convallaria majalis), daylilies (Hemerocallis) or lungwort (Pulmonaria), they can banish winter as early as February. Some varieties, such as cyclamen daffodils (Narcissus cyclamineus) or trumpet daffodils, are easy to wild. These varieties reproduce independently, thereby spreading all by themselves. - Source: Internet
• As a general rule plant large bulbs such as hyacinth, daffodil and tulip with about 10cm of soil on top of the bulb. Plant small bulbs such as muscari, tritelia and freesia about half that depth. Top up the mix after the first watering as necessary. - Source: Internet
• When blooms fade, you can either (a) compost the bulbs, (b) replant them in the garden immediately, making sure to get their bases as deep as they would be if you had planted them there to start with, or (c) move the pot into a sunny, out-of-the-way spot (ideally buried in the ground to keep the bulbs cool) and keep them growing strongly for as long as possible. When the foliage yellows, empty the bulbs from the pots, dry completely, remove the foliage, and store in a cool, dry, well ventilated spot until it’s time to replant them in the garden in the fall. Although they may not bloom the following year, with luck and good care they’ll bounce back from their life in confinement and bloom again in future years. - Source: Internet
• In the springtime, daffodils require little care. They have average water needs, or require about an inch of rainfall weekly. If the springtime is really dry, they may require some additional watering. - Source: Internet
• Mice, chipmunks, and other rodents can be even more destructive. Jane Baldwin, whose tips for growing bulbs in baskets are featured below, told us that “mice and other critters were the sole cause of failure for me. I think the best solution is to either (a) store the pots in a tight closet in the garage or (b) upturn larger pots over each of them, but I’ve also stored them in old-fashioned galvanized garbage cans.” - Source: Internet
• It’s easy to fit daffodils into your gardening style. Depending on the cultivar, they grow 14-24 inches tall, and look right at home in formal gardens, naturalized areas, mixed perennial beds and other locations. For the best effect, we recommend planting daffodils in groups of five or more. Some gardeners, though, plant hundreds of daffodil bulbs to create a burst of color in the springtime. - Source: Internet
• When bulbs are growing vigorously, pots can dry out quickly. Check the soil with your finger daily, and water as needed to keep it moist but not soggy. Early in the season when bulbs are just getting started and the weather is cool you’ll need to water less, but later when there’s a lot of top growth, the weather is hot, and roots have filled the pot so completely that there’s less soil left to hold moisture, you’ll need to water more — often daily, and sometimes even more! - Source: Internet
• “A couple of years ago,” she writes, “I got caught by early snow so I planted the last of my daffodils in baskets. It looked fabulous and I highly recommend this to anyone, even if you’re not in the same predicament. In fact, it’s how I’m planting most of the daffs I ordered from you this fall. - Source: Internet
• The flowers of the daffodil range from white to shades of yellow and orange. The flower structure characterises the 12 groups of daffodils. The various flowers have an intense fragrance. Nevertheless, their flowering time makes them unsuitable for bee pasture. If you want to support bee populations in your own garden, check out our article on the 10 most bee-friendly plants. - Source: Internet
• There’s something rather joyous about planting spring bulbs. It gives you something to look forward to as autumn’s blustery weather begins to take its toll on the garden. So make a little time for it now, enjoy the process and those chilly days to come will be brightened by the fruits of your labour. - Source: Internet
• When dividing, a piece of the base of the bulb must remain on the daughter bulbs. There the sucker root is formed. So multiplying your daffodils yourself by division does not require much effort. You can also sow daffodils yourself. However, it takes up to seven years before the daffodil blooms for the first time. - Source: Internet
• Sunny spots can get very hot, though, which may cause problems for some bulbs. Soil in pots heats up much faster than soil in the ground, and if a pot is set on a deck or paving, or near a south or west wall, it will get even hotter and stay warm longer. In cooler parts of the country, some bulbs such as tuberoses, rain lilies, and crinums will appreciate the extra heat, but glads and especially dahlias won’t. - Source: Internet
• After the flowers have faded and the spring gala is over, I plant all the bulbs except for the tulips in the garden. Tulips tend not to do well in subsequent years, so I compost them. Then I start thinking ahead to the varieties I’ll be planting up in the fall for next year’s display. - Source: Internet
• use, approximately 6 inches deep and 1-3 feet across. I put a few inches of good potting soil in them and then planted the bulbs right smack against one another with their tips just barely covered by the soil. Smaller-flowered varieties such as ‘Thalia’ went in the smaller baskets and bigger ones such as ‘Carlton’ in the bigger baskets. - Source: Internet
• If you want to, though, it’s easy to store most spring-planted bulbs indoors during the winter. For example, here in zone 6a we keep our pots of rain lilies growing outside as long as possible in the fall, making sure they get as much sunlight as possible as the waning sun sinks lower in the sky. When the first frost threatens, we move them to a warm spot overnight and then back into the sun in the morning when it warms up again. Weeks later when the weather gets so cold that we’re doing this almost every night, we simply move the pots to a dim, cool, well-ventilated spot on our basement floor and stop watering them completely so the foliage will wither and the bulbs go dormant. Then we put a note in our phone to start checking on them in early spring for the first signs of new growth. - Source: Internet
• Another great way to enjoy pots of bulbs such as glads or tuberoses in the garden is to plant them in black plastic nursery pots, grow them in an out of the way spot like your vegetable garden or back of the border, and then when they start blooming move them wherever you need some excitement. There’s usually no need to bury the pots. Just set them on top of the soil where the foliage of other plants will mask them from view — and don’t forget to water them whenever you water your other pots. - Source: Internet
• A large pot of blooming daffodils will brighten up any front entrance. Planting takes place as usual in September. The minimum dimensions for the pot are 25 cm in depth and 20 cm in width. When planting in a pot, the following should be observed: - Source: Internet
• I plant our bulbs in late October in containers with good drainage. In a 24-inch container I plant either 50 tulips, 30 large-flowered daffodils, 50 small-flowered daffodils, or 100 minor bulbs, like Crocus, Muscari, Scilla, or Iris species or cultivars. I fill the pot with a soil mix that drains very well so the bulbs will sit in moist but not soggy soil. I plant the bulbs just as I would in the ground, at a soil depth of twice the diameter of the bulb. - Source: Internet
• Nothing announces the arrival of spring like daffodils. Their cheerful, trumpet-shaped flowers splash gardens and landscapes with golden yellows and other brilliantly colored hues. These spring blooms are also a favorite in cut flower arrangements. - Source: Internet
• Only garden soils that are too heavy are mixed with sand. A slightly greater seeding depth makes it less likely that the bulbs will dry out. After planting, water thoroughly – this accelerates root development. - Source: Internet
• “At the end of spring I took the bulbs out of the baskets and kept them dry over the summer in the garage. Now they are planted on a hillside along my driveway where they continue to bloom beautifully — and every fall I plant more in baskets.” - Source: Internet
• For smaller plots, it’s a nice idea to plant different varieties of daffodils together to have an extended bloom in your garden with a range of colors, says Marlow. ‘Daffodils generally grow in height anywhere from 2in (5cm) to 20in (50cm) and can be planted together to create a varied and colorful display.’ - Source: Internet
• Unlike their fall-planted cousins, spring-planted bulbs in pots need to be fertilized. Their growing season is long and their pots are small, so eventually they’ll exhaust the nutrition that’s in the potting soil and their growth and blooming will falter. To remedy this, wait until the plant is in full growth and then simply add a bit of liquid or water-soluble fertilizer to your watering can every few weeks. Although “all-purpose” fertilizers will work just fine, you might want to use something like Miracle-Gro Bloom Booster which has more phosphorus to promote flowering. Of course there are many good organic fertilizers available, too. - Source: Internet
• After a few colourful years, the flowering power decreases. Now you can decide whether you want to propagate your bulb flowers yourself or simply buy new bulbs. The brown bulbs can be bought in many varieties in specialist shops. If you want to propagate yourself, proceed as follows: - Source: Internet
• Fertilise, as with other early-flowering bulb flowers in the spring, when the leaves sprout. Fertilise with a natural fertiliser or mature compost. Our Plantura Flower Food with long-lasting action is an excellent choice for daffodils. - Source: Internet
• Use your finger to check soil moisture at least weekly throughout the winter. (Put a reminder in your phone or a note on your calendar.) Soil should be moist but never soggy. When the bulbs are just starting to grow, you’ll need to water infrequently, but later when roots fill the pot and top growth emerges, the soil will dry out much more quickly, so pay attention. Remember that a pot is a small, closed system and if your bulbs can’t get all the water they need, all the time, their growth and bloom will suffer. - Source: Internet
• Daffodils naturalize well and will come back year after year. They produce more bulbs each year. If the daffodils become too crowded they may not perform as well. This means they are ready to divide. Bulb division should be done after the foliage has completely faded away. - Source: Internet
• The oft-repeated mantra ‘right plant, right place’ applies as much to bulbs in pots as to those in a garden. Many plants thrive in pots and bulb planting in pots allows for a much more flexible display, a moveable feast for the eyes, that you can adjust and update throughout the year. In autumn, gardeners are thinking about planting spring bulbs, and it’s worth taking the time to consider planting combinations, where you want the display to sit, plus the size and style of your pot. - Source: Internet
• Fritillaria bulbs are very fragile and can often dry out in storage. To give your display every chance of success, soak them in lukewarm water for a few hours before planting. You can also buy them ‘in the green’ in spring. If you’re planting bulbs in autumn, plant them as soon as possible in early autumn in moist, humus-rich, loam-based compost at four times their own depth, ensuring that the pots have holes for drainage. Protect with plastic netting or chicken wire. - Source: Internet
• As a general rule, bulbs that you want to see flower in the early months of the year should ideally be planted around six weeks or more before the ground starts to harden with the first frosts. However, bulbs are spectacularly hardy. Provided they are firm and plump, they are stored correctly (more on this later) and planted in soil that can still be dug over, you are still likely to be rewarded with blooms a few months after planting. In fact, even planting bulbs in the new year will often yield a display. - Source: Internet
• Cold is essential, though! Almost all fall-planted bulbs need a certain number of hours below 48° F in order to complete the chemical changes that allow their flower stems to emerge and grow to a normal height. (This is nature’s way of preventing them from blooming during a mid-winter thaw.) The hours of “chill time” needed varies widely — tulips, for example, need a lot, while some tazetta narcissus need almost none — but if you don’t give your bulbs the cold they need, they’ll either bloom on very short stems or not at all. - Source: Internet
• But you can’t grow bulbs in containers the same way you do bulbs in the ground. Compared to the garden itself, even the largest containers are tiny, cramped, highly artificial worlds where the wrong potting soil, extreme temperatures, or a couple of days without water can mean the difference between success and disappointment. We hope our advice here will help, but please remember that when you grow bulbs in pots, you’re taking the place of Mother Nature, and it’s hard to do that exactly right. - Source: Internet
• The origin of our word daffodil is as unusual as its trumpet-shaped flower. In Greek mythology, Narcissus was a hero who was so self-absorbed in his own beauty that he tried to embrace his reflection in a river and drowned. On the funeral pyre he turned into a daffodil. - Source: Internet
• Like many other fall planted bulbs, daffodils or narcissus require a cold period that allows their roots to develop and for them to get ready for spring. This is why daffodils don’t grow well in far southern parts of the United States. If growing daffodils in containers, many northern gardeners bring the containers to a more protected space, like an unheated garage, over winter so the bulbs don’t freeze. - Source: Internet
• Once green sprouts start to emerge — which is often much earlier than you’d expect — you’ll probably want to move the pot into the sunniest spot you can find and start watering it lightly. However, if warm weather is still a long way off, we often delay that for a couple of weeks and the bulbs seem to cope. The sooner you can get the pots outside in full sun, the stronger the foliage will be, but remember these are tender bulbs and they can’t take as much cold as hardy bulbs such as daffodils. When you start putting them outside, harden them off gradually as you would seedlings you’ve started inside. Leave them for just an hour or two at first, in a sunny spot that’s sheltered from the wind, and then gradually extend their time outdoors a little more every day, giving the foliage a chance to toughen up and adjust to life outside. - Source: Internet
• “I put them in our attached garage so they would get the necessary cold, and made sure that mice couldn’t get to them. I watered them at first but eventually the soil froze. At the end of winter when it started to thaw, I brought the baskets out on the patio to a sunny spot where they bloomed to perfection. Even though there were only 2-3 inches of soil under the bulbs and they were planted right next to each other, they performed just fine and looked exquisite in the baskets for a good long time. It was really very easy, and even our chipmunks and squirrels left them alone out there. - Source: Internet
• Pot the bulbs up in autumn, using a loam-based compost with extra sand for drainage and leaf mould for the squills as they appreciate humus-rich soil. Leave outside in a sheltered spot and bring into a polytunnel in January to encourage early flowering. You can transfer the plants into their final containers as they come into flower. Top dress them with garden gravel for a finished look. - Source: Internet
• When watering, it is important to remember that the soil should not be too dry for a long time. Waterlogging should be avoided because of the risk of fungal infection with fusarium. However, for a bulbous plant, daffodil is very tolerant of moisture. - Source: Internet
• Fall-planted bulbs in containers have different needs than bulbs planted directly in the ground. If you treat them the same, you’ll probably be disappointed. If, on the other hand, you follow our advice carefully you can have beautiful pots of spring flowers welcoming friends to your front door or brightening your terrace. Please note, though, that because so much depends on your care, we don’t guarantee the success of our fall-planted bulbs when grown in containers. - Source: Internet
• Any bulb can be planted in a container, but tulips are by far my favorite because of their simple form and the infinite choice of colors. You can combine different types of bulbs in a single container, but be sure they bloom at the same time or the earlier bulb’s dying foliage will mar the display of the later-flowering bulb. I prefer to plant only one type of bulb per container to get the maximum impact. By choosing bulbs with staggered bloom times we have a succession of flowers from early March through mid-May. - Source: Internet
• If your potted bulbs are outside, you may need to protect them from getting too wet in the winter. During extended wet periods, cover the pots or move them to a sheltered spot. Bulbs that stay too wet for too long, especially tulips, will die. - Source: Internet
• To grow daffodils indoors, plant in a pot with several bulbs in each pot. For smaller pots, go with 2-3 bulbs and for bigger pots, aim for 3-5. Indoor flowers tend to make a more attractive display when planted en masse. - Source: Internet
• In much the same way as bulbs in the ground benefit from fertilising, bulbs in pots benefit from fertilising not so much for the current year’s flowers but for building up the bulb for next year’s flowers. This is particularly important for pots as the bulb’s root system and hence its ability to feed, is generally more restricted in a pot. Feeding the bulbs after flowering, removing spent flowers and allowing the leaves to die down naturally is even more important for bulbs in pots. The advantage of pots is that you can move them out of sight whilst they die down. - Source: Internet
• ‘The Toto (opens in new tab) variety is considered to be a dwarf daffodil, so will bloom nicely in a small pot, and is ideal for windowsills. Meanwhile, the Carlton (opens in new tab) daffodil variety is known for its large scale growth with big flowers and strong stems, and these are ideal for planting in the ground.’ - Source: Internet
• When choosing pots, keep in mind that (a) spring-planted bulbs have a much longer growing season than fall-planted bulbs do and (b) some grow much larger. That means you can’t cram them in as tightly as you would fall-planted bulbs, so you need roomier pots. Some bulbs will also appreciate the cooling protection of a cache-pot. For guidance, see tips #2, #5, and our bulb-by-bulb advice below. - Source: Internet
• Plant a few inches deeper than usual – the extra inches of soil will provide additional insulation. If the ground freezes hard, cover the site with some mulch, leaves or straw. If you’re planting spring bulbs in pots, use large containers ensuring the bulbs are not placed against the sides of the pot where they could freeze. - Source: Internet
• Of course you can also empty your pots in the fall and store the bulbs in mesh bags, plastic tubs, etc. See our “care” links below for easy instructions. But remember — composting is also a perfectly honorable choice! - Source: Internet
• Bulbs in pots are typically planted much closer together and less deep than bulbs in the ground. (If, however, your containers are very large and more like garden beds than pots — such as in a roof-top garden — it’s best to stick to standard recommendations for depths and spacing.) Plant bulbs so they’re close but not touching, with their tips just below the soil surface. The goal is to leave as much room as possible under them for root growth. Arrange tulip bulbs with their flat side facing out for a neater display of leaves. - Source: Internet
• Daffodils (Narcissus) belong to the amaryllis family (Amaryllidaceae). The wild species are distributed in southwestern Europe and northwestern Africa. However, these harbingers of Easter have long been native to our gardens. The popularity of the daffodil is shown by its now 24,000 cultivated forms. - Source: Internet
• If I am planting more than one type of bulb in the same container and they require different planting depths, I layer the bulbs. I fill the container to the right level and plant the larger bulbs, then cover them with soil until it’s at the proper depth to plant the smaller bulbs. Finally, I fill the container with soil, being sure to leave at least 1/2 inch of space between the surface of the soil and the top of the container for easy watering. - Source: Internet
• To help your bulbs settle into their new home, water your daffodils straight after planting. ‘This will set the soil and ensure no air pockets are in the ground,’ advises Marlow. ‘After that, it’s okay to leave them as they will be watered by rain through the winter,’ says Raven. ‘If there’s a long dry spell, water accordingly, paying particular attention to pots.’ - Source: Internet
• Daffodil or narcissus bulbs are planted in the fall, when the weather starts to cool and before hard freezes set in. In more northern regions, daffodil bulbs can be planted in late September through October, while in more southern regions, the planting time is October through November. A good rule of thumb for fall planting bulbs is to let soil temperature be your guide on when to plant daffodils. The soil should be below 60 degrees F. but not frozen. - Source: Internet
• If you take the right location into consideration and pay attention to everything important when planting, the 15 to 40 cm tall little plants will feel at home almost anywhere. They can be planted in beds, pots, meadows, lawns or rock gardens. Easter without daffodils in the garden would be hard to imagine. - Source: Internet
• Daffodils are also available in a range of bloom times. By selecting early-season, mid-season and late-season varieties, you can extend the daffodil season up to three months. Browse daffodil bulbs from KVB for one of the best and most varied selection of daffodil flowers. - Source: Internet
• When planting, place the bulbs in good multi-purpose compost or bulb fibre, with their tips just below the surface. Water well once planted and leave somewhere that is warm and receives a lot of sun. Indoor daffodils can grow to impressive heights, so be aware that you may need to provide support if this happens. - Source: Internet
• When the daffodil flowers fade, deadheading or cutting the spent flower heads, gives a neater appearance. Don’t cut the foliage, though, as it’s making food for next year’s flowers. Allow the foliage to naturally fade or die back. Some gardeners plant perennials around daffodils to hide the fading foliage. - Source: Internet
• Rain lilies are great in pots, and were once commonly grown that way, even in the North. For us they seem to do best in pots that are shorter than they are wide, such as those sold as “azalea pots” or “bulb pots.” Plant the small bulbs close together — 50 in a 10-inch pot isn’t too many — and once they get going, water and fertilize them regularly. Bloom may be modest the first year as the bulbs settle in, but with good care they will bulk up and give you more flowers every year. Keep them growing outside as long as possible in the fall — a bit of cold weather may increase future bloom — and then store dry and cool indoors through the winter. - Source: Internet
• Well-drained soil is a must for daffodils. Bulbs don’t like wet feet. If planted in poorly drained soil, daffodil bulbs will rot. - Source: Internet
• As for soil, even the best garden soil is usually too heavy or dense for growing bulbs in pots, and many popular potting soils will cause problems, too. Look for one that’s relatively porous and fast-draining, with a good percentage of perlite, vermiculite, or bark. Avoid mixes that are virtually all peat moss because they often stay too wet for bulbs. Avoid mushroom compost and manure, too. - Source: Internet
• To keep soil cooler, double-pot your bulbs by planting them in one pot — say a common black-plastic nursery pot — and then slipping that inside a decorative cache-pot. The outer pot will shade the inner pot, and the air space between the two will slow the transfer of heat. Just make sure the cache-pots have drainage holes, to avoid drowning your bulbs. - Source: Internet
• If everything has gone as planned, roots will eventually fill the pot and show at the hole(s) in the bottom. Foliage will start to emerge above the soil, and as spring approaches and temperatures rise, it will get increasingly difficult to hold this back. Once the leaves are taller than a couple of inches, move the pot gradually into brighter light and eventually full sun. Water as needed, maybe even daily once flower buds show. In the burgeoning rush of spring growth, it’s hard to overwater bulbs, although even then they never want to be water-logged. - Source: Internet
• Space bulbs approximately two to three bulb-widths apart. Finish by adding more potting mix at the end. The tips of the bulbs should barely be visible from the surface. - Source: Internet
• If you don’t have much outdoor space or simply want to brighten your living room or kitchen, growing bulbs indoors is surprisingly simple to do. The simplest option is to choose an indoor bulb that’s native to a warmer climate; this means they won’t need a cooling period to trigger blooming. Amaryllis and narcissus are among two of the most popular choices and will typically flower within four weeks of planting. - Source: Internet
• Most spring-planted bulbs need at least a half-day of full sun to grow and bloom well, and they’ll do better with more. This is especially true in the north where sunlight is never as strong as it is further south. Of course a spot that’s in full sun in mid-summer when the sun is high in the sky can fall into shade later in the season as the angle of the sun declines, so keep an eye on this and move your pots as needed. - Source: Internet
• Narcissi bulbs need to be in the ground by September and if grown in pots need plenty of grit, roughly one part grit to three parts John Innes No 1. A pot 80cm in diameter can take up to 75 bulbs of mid-sized narcissus. With troughs, ensure the drainage hole is kept open by using crocks over it. - Source: Internet
• Daffodils can also bring spring into your home as houseplants. Cooler temperatures around 15 °C make indoor daffodils bloom longer. Also, you should periodically turn the plants, because the flowers turn to the window. - Source: Internet
• Today’s best daffodil bulbs deals Reduced Price (opens in new tab) (opens in new tab) £19.99 (opens in new tab) £11.99 (opens in new tab) View Deal (opens in new tab) - Source: Internet
• Next, either prepare a bed for planting daffodil bulbs or dig individual holes for the bulbs. If digging individual holes, people often use a bulb planter or auger. For bulb planting supplies, visit our garden fertilizer and tools page. - Source: Internet
• Most detached garages offer very little protection from the cold, but they may work for some bulbs in some zones. In other words, proceed with caution. Elizabeth Licata, who gardens in zone-6a Buffalo, NY, stores her potted bulbs in an detached garage and says, “I’ve never lost any tulips, regardless of the size of the pot or the coldness of the winter.” Hyacinths, on the other hand, haven’t done well in her garage, which makes sense because they’re less winter-hardy than tulips. - Source: Internet
• Also seen is Scilla siberica (squill). Planting muscari in pots to bring indoors not only allows us to appreciate their beauty in greater detail, but it is also a great way to experiment with new bulbs in small numbers. The copper pots add a stylish edge to the display. - Source: Internet
• When people think of daffodils, yellow-hued varieties are often the first that come to mind. But thanks to modern breeding efforts, gardeners can now choose from hundreds of different daffodil cultivars, including those with double blooms and in hues of yellow, orange, white, salmon and more. Select daffodils that fit your color scheme and preference. - Source: Internet
• In winter, bulbs in above-ground containers will get MUCH colder than those planted in the ground — where the earth protects them like a huge insulating blanket — and that can be deadly. Even in the coldest parts of the country, the soil a few feet below the surface rarely freezes, and a bulb planted six inches underground will enjoy relatively balmy temperatures compared to one that’s in a pot on top of the soil. Bulbs that are hardy in zone 5, for example, are hardy UNDERGROUND in zone 5, not in an above-ground container where the temperatures can easily be 20 degrees colder. This means you’ll need to store your potted bulbs through the winter in a place that stays colder than 48° F most of the time but that doesn’t get as severely cold as it is outside. - Source: Internet
• Growing bulbs in pots is one of the smartest and easiest things you can do in your garden, and it has a huge payoff. Planting bulbs in containers means you know exactly where they are, you can move them wherever they need to go to chill, and you can place them on your patio, steps, porch, or wherever they’re going to cause the biggest sensation in spring. Then, if you want to save the bulbs, you can move them out of sight to allow the foliage to fade. Keep reading to get some container bulb planting tips. - Source: Internet
• Avoid placing your newly planted daffodils near anything that creates a lot of heat, like radiators or fireplaces. This can make them dry out quicker, risking the chance of them dying. Keep near a window to allow them lots of natural light when the weather allows. - Source: Internet
• Using pots offers you the great convenience of setting down a haze of colour just when you need it. But when you’re using narcissi you can easily end up with an arrangement that has an unnatural look or one that is too yellow biased. Narcissi (daffodils) work best if you plant separate pots of just a few carefully selected kinds or, if the pot is impressive enough, one single star variety. - Source: Internet
• If you want to set your garden out from the rest, you can hunt out some of the more unusual types of daffodils: ‘For example, take a look at the Cassandra (opens in new tab) and Maximus (opens in new tab) (Narcissus Hispanicus) varieties. The latter are traditional yellow trumpet daffodils with a wonderful golden shade and are super easy to grow.’ - Source: Internet
• This display uses Narcissus ‘Elka’. It’s a delicate daffodil with ivory-white petals and a pale-yellow trumpet that fades to china white. It also has a scent that is light and sweet. - Source: Internet
• Other common spring bulbs that you’d find in your garden will require chilling to thrive indoors. Tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, crocus and iris can all be used as indoor bulbs but will need to be stored in cool temperatures before they are ready to start blooming. Once planted, bulbs will need to be kept in a cool place for 16 to 18 weeks - the simplest thing to do is plant your bulbs in late autumn then leave them in a sheltered garage or shed during the winter. - Source: Internet
• While their bloom times can vary, daffodils, also called narcissus, generally burst into bloom after crocuses and before tulips. They are some of the easiest of the spring-blooming bulbs to grow. Suitable for zones 3-8, daffodils can be grown throughout much of the United States. To see if daffodils will grow in your area, you can check our hardiness zone finder. - Source: Internet
• There are various breeds of indoor daffodil and narcissus. For example, the Narcissus ‘Paper White’ is a popular bulb, due to its attractive peony-shaped flower heads and its sweet scent. They are perfect for Christmas displays, due to it taking just 6-8 weeks to flower. However, with other indoor daffodils, this time will increase to 16-18 weeks. - Source: Internet
• We grow our crinums in pots, and we love them, but they’re more of a challenge in pots than most spring-planted bulbs are. They’re big bulbs — some will grow to football size over time — and their thick, permanent roots can quickly fill a pot completely. That makes watering difficult and may eventually break the pot. To learn more, read the advice of two of our northern customers, and see our info on crinum care. - Source: Internet
• After your blooms have faded, decide whether you’d like your blooms to grow again next year. The best approach would be to recover the bulbs and store them in a dry place out of direct sunlight. If you want to keep them in the pots, move the pots out of direct sunlight, cover and hide away in your garage or shed and give them a liquid feed . When the blooms fade you can also dig them up and plant them in your garden to bloom the following year as well. - Source: Internet
• Gardening in Seattle makes overwintering bulbs in containers rather easy. I use mostly stoneware pots because they can be left outside through the winter. Our mild winters allow us to group the pots together tightly in our nursery and leave them outside for the season. - Source: Internet
• Growing bulbs in pots that mature at different points in the season (using the Lasagna method) will make for continuous and impressive blooming. Most any bulb will work well in a pot. That said, here are some common bulbs that grow well in containers: - Source: Internet
• Plant your daffodil bulbs in groups of six to ten bulbs in a circular shape in your garden. ‘Daffodils are great flowers for ‘less effort but big results’ gardening,’ explains Marlow, ‘Dig a hole in the soil, which is about six inches deep, and then plant anywhere from three to ten bulbs together, depending on how wide the hole is.’ - Source: Internet
• Daffodils require well-drained soil and full sun to partial shade. Some daffodil varieties are more suitable to partial shade or dappled sunlight, so be sure to check the light requirements on each variety. Partial shade is usually defined as 4-6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Because daffodils bloom in the spring, before many deciduous trees leaf out, they can often be planted under trees or in woodland areas. - Source: Internet
• Attached garages are usually a much better place to store potted bulbs — if you keep the doors closed. The warmest areas are typically higher (heat rises) and next to the wall of the house (where heat radiates out). Unfortunately automobile exhaust fumes contain ethylene gas which can cause flower buds to abort, so if you warm up your car in the garage on cold mornings, you may end up with pots of great foliage in the spring but no flowers. - Source: Internet
• Plant most spring-planted bulbs so they’re closer and shallower than they would be in the ground — but not as close and shallow as fall-planted bulbs in pots. The goal is to make the most of the limited space, but since spring-planted bulbs have to support top-growth all summer long instead of for just a few weeks in the spring, they need more room. This is especially true for dahlias and cannas because (a) they get so big and (b) if their growth slows or stops, so will their blooming. See our bulb-by-bulb tips below for guidance. - Source: Internet
• Set the bulb so that the pointy end is up. Cover with dirt. After planting, water the bulbs well and cover with a light mulch. - Source: Internet
• Water the containers until water begins to leak from the drainage holes. Then water periodically after planting. Avoid the pot becoming waterlogged as this will rot the bulbs. - Source: Internet
• To help give your bulbs more water when they need it, set a saucer under each pot and water until it’s at least partially filled. Be careful, though, especially when bulbs are just getting started or growth is slow, because constantly soggy soil will cause most bulbs to rot and die. The goal is to give them a reservoir to draw on for a few hours. If there’s still water in the saucer, say, eight hours later, dump it out and water less next time. - Source: Internet
• The depth and spacing of planted bulbs differ depending on the size of the bulb and whether it is a border bulb or a container bulb. In general, bulbs should be planted 2-3 times their diameter deep and 1-2 times their diameter apart. The below table provides a handy guide but when in doubt always consult the back of the pack for details. - Source: Internet

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